This trip was completed in January 2025.
It is finally time for a review of Tokyo, a city which can only grow in popularity. While it is not uncommon to be overwhelmed by the tourist numbers and the surrounding sensory overload, we set out on this trip to experience something new and perhaps lesser-known.
Commute by boat is one such activity where there were only locals onboard during the ride, and we also particularly enjoy our local bus ride from Shibuya to Azabudai Hills, with sights of office workers hanging outside small non-descript buildings and parents sending their children to schools.
Transportation: Haneda Airport Limousine Bus
Rating 8.0/10
Haneda Airport is closer to Tokyo city centre than Narita Airport, hence there are many viable options to get from the airport to the city without taking an expensive taxi ride. Regardless of which public transportation travelers choose to take, it is more convenient to get a transport card called IC card at the airport. There are specific dedicated counters to purchase an IC card (most common being a Suica or Pasmo card), so it can be confusing for first-timers. The standard top-up machines do not dispense these cards. For Suica card, you can get one at Haneda Terminal 3 Tokyo Monorail station. For Pasmo card, you can get one at Haneda Terminal 2 Keikyu Station customer service counter, which is a train station connecting commuters to the city via the Keikyu Line.
Since most travelers to Tokyo will most likely take the train or monorail to Tokyo city, we decided to discuss the Airport Limousine Bus service as an alternative option. Different bus services will pass by different areas of Tokyo, hence it is necessary to get to the correct numbered pick-up berth where a staff will be present to give you a ticket for the bus. All the berths are located together on the first floor of the terminal, and there are clear signs once you exit the arrival hall.
Buses depart every hour or so, and payment can be done using the transportation card on the fare machine in the bus. Since the bus journey is around the same time as the railway (if your hotel is near any of the bus drop-off points), we find that the airport limousine bus is both a more comfortable and scenic way to get into the city. Bulky luggage are separately stored in the dedicated bus compartment, while travelers can seat and admire the views along the way. We particularly recommend this bus option for early morning flight arrivals as the bus may be nearly empty and the road into the city is not congested at all.
If, like us, your hotel is in the Shibuya area, the bus ride can be more direct since taking the train requires changing lines in the city. The airport monorail is an express service compared to the Keikyu train and that is convenient if your hotel is around Hamamatsucho area.
Accommodation: Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu
Rating: 7.9/10
While this hotel may look dated from the exterior, it is situated at a prime location right above the Shibuya Scramble Crossing and connected to all the train lines and bus terminal in Shibuya via the mall below the hotel. Conveniently, the 5th floor of the building (called Shibuya Mark City) is also where Haneda Airport limousine bus drops off passengers, so you can simply walk straight to the hotel lobby on the same floor after alighting the bus.
The hotel does not have a swimming pool but a small fitness room is available for use with reservation. For our room, the size is generous by Tokyo standards; fitting in twin beds, wardrobe, lounger chairs and table, with enough remaining space to even allow for opening up of luggages at the corner. However, the bathroom is basic at best, with a tub for showering and the usual Japanese bidet system.
For a view of the Shibuya crossing from the hotel room, it is highly recommended to get the corner rooms which are right next to the hotel lifts as the orientation of the hotel is diagonal to the Shibuya crossing (so most rooms will not have a direct view of the landmark). Room rate is around 40,000 yen/night, which we think is pricey for the room condition but also includes a premium for its location.
Staying at this hotel also doubles up as an alternative to the Shibuya Sky, a popular tourist attraction nearby with sweeping views of the Shibuya area. Shibuya Sky allows reservations in advance and it is nearly always fully booked with little chance of walk-in purchase.
While the hotel is certainly not as high as Shibuya Sky, rooms on the high floors allow guests to soak in the views from the comfort of their room and witness the change in the scenery from dusk to dawn compared to the normal operating hours of the Shibuya Sky.
A simple breakfast spread is also available at level 25, where both sides of the building facing have window seats. The restaurant timing is rather early (starting from 6.30am and ending before 10am) but we think the restaurant is worth waking up early for the views more than the food.
Accommodation: Nine Hours Hamamatsucho
Rating 8.0/10
This is our first time trying out a capsule hotel for the experience. As we also had an early morning flight out of Tokyo, this capsule hotel strategically connects us to Haneda Airport via Hamamatsucho Station (Tokyo Airport Monorail) in the wee hours of the morning. It is definitely situated in a prime location near a dense transportation node in the Tokyo Tower vicinity.
There is a strict check-in and check-out timing as the entire hotel building will be undergoing regular daily cleaning hours in the morning. Guests will either have to leave the hotel or wait out the period at the common lounge located on the 10th floor.
The capsule hotel is split by gender, with female-only floors serviced by a separate lift. Bulky luggage can be placed under individual lockers but only the lockers come with a card security system. Showers are all located on the same floor, with sufficient cubicles and toiletries. The service is generally top notch as their pricing is meant to position themselves as a premium capsule hotel.
As for the sleeping pods, we found them to be spacious enough for a basic night of rest. Lights can be dimmed and there is a power socket for USB charging. However, we found that the USB ports may not support certain newer charging cables we have so this is something important to keep in mind. They use the same charging sockets throughout the building, including the common lounge area which supposedly doubles up as a workstation for guests. Therefore, we did not have luck charging our devices at the lounge too.
Dining: Ichiran (Shinjuku Kabukicho)
Rating 8.8/10
Tucked in an alley off a touristy street in Shinjuku, this outlet is located at the basement with a discreet entrance in what looks like a garage space. However, it being in Shinjuku means that the location is very prime, and highly unlikely to find the ramen restaurant without a snaking queue at most timings of the day.
One way to get to the restaurant is by locating the street where most tourists will get a customary photo of the iconic Godzilla head at the top of a building. Ichiran will be in one of the side alley that branches off from that main street. This is more of a casual spot for solo diners, with single cubicles in a small space allowing for fast turnover. It is also what Ichiran is known for, apart from the fantastic ramen they serve.
To our surprise, we arrived at around 10.30am in the morning and there were only a handful of customers in line before us. Hence, the queue time was only about five minutes and the kiosk ordering process was also smooth. Make sure to order first before joining the second queue to enter the dining area. After ordering at the kiosk, proceed to another queue where a staff will then pass you an order chit to customise your ramen such as the hardness of the noodles.
First time patrons to the restaurant will find the experience rather amusing, with no social chatter and little to no interactions necessary throughout the meal. The most one will hear will be the kitchen sound as well as customers slurping their noodles from the cubicles beside you. Even if coming in a group, it is recommended to sit apart as and when seats are available instead of waiting longer for consecutive seats to be available since the dining experience is largely a one-person affair.
We found the ramen broth to be rich and authentic, and the highlight was the vinegar which is available as an add-on when ordering. The vinegar brings out the flavours of the tonkotsu ramen, and balances the entire dish surprisingly well. In addition, there was a seasonal dish (for a few weeks) called Fukuran, a cold salted soft-boiled egg nicely complementing the ramen.
Dining: Kura Sushi (Harajuku)
Rating 7.8/10
Located in Harajuku, this outlet is a short walk from the bustling Takeshita Street. It occupies one of the top floors of the narrow glass building but YM Square (the building name) itself is quite visible from the main commercial street. The store operates as a sushi conveyor belt chain restaurant and there are various table sizes to cater to both solo diners and groups. Solo diners will be on counter seats while larger groups have standard tables beside the conveyor belts.
While this conveyor sushi concept is widespread in Japan, Kura Sushi seems to be able to do it in a sleeker style. The brand itself is also well-known and they are already popular in the United States as a revolving sushi bar. We took a counter seat and every table comes with a plate return mechanism synced with the counting software on the ordering tablet.
The food we tried were undoubtedly fresh and orders came quickly. Overall, the entire dining experience and process is systematic and efficient, a standard that Japan is known for. Something a little interesting is their birthday set that can be ordered and the celebratory set will be delivered on the conveyor belt to your table. It comes with a light display and music so patrons at other tables will also be able to see it pass by the conveyor belt. Treat it as much as a birthday public announcement!
Dining: Gyukatsu Motomura (Shibuya)
Rating 8.5/10
There are many outlets spread throughout Tokyo but we went to the one at Shibuya given its proximity to our hotel. Being a very popular restaurant, one can expect a long queue during peak dining hours even on weekdays. However, there are pockets of timings such as ten minutes before the store opens where customers have yet to start queuing so you can dine as the first wave.
Given that Gyukatsu involves cooking the crusted beef on a stonepot yourself, chances are the diners will spend longer time in the restaurant so the table turnover may not be as fast as say, Ichiran Ramen. Something we find very useful is that the menu is limited to a few items. The main dish is simply the Gyukatsu so customers will not be overwhelmed over what to order.
This is a specialty restaurant that does one or two things very well, hence we were not surprised with how good the food taste. Once cooked on the stonepot, the beef has a layer of grease which goes very well with rice and makes you want to have another piece. The sauce that accompanied the meat also mixes well and whet your appetite. A generous serving of crunchy lettuce helps to freshen up your palate from the beef cutlet. The staff were attentive during our meal and they spoke a good amount of English as they do need to explain to foreign tourists and first-time customers on how to enjoy the Gyukatsu.
Activity: Azabudai Hills
Rating 8.1/10
Azabudai Hills belongs to an upscale area in Tokyo, straddling in between Shibuya and Ginza. The peaceful neighbourhood is great for quiet walks, home to embassies and high-end residences. We were here for an alternative city view from the top, away from the usual tourist observation decks like Shibuya Sky, Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building.
Being near Tokyo Tower, the spot at Mori JP Tower offers a spectacular close-up vantage point. The way to this observation floor is not straightforward as it is in an office building and visitors will have to make a token amount of minimum spending at a cafe called Hills House at the observation area.
Walk-in to Hills House is possible most of the time (although we once met with a private event and so was denied entry) and you have to locate a dedicated concierge at the lobby of the office building (connected to the mall at Azabudai Hills). Apart from the observation deck, this area is also worth a visit as teamLab Borderless is situated in the same Azabudai Hills compound, together with the exclusive Aman Residences and JANU.
Activity: Commute by Boat
Rating 8.3/10
One of the main highlights of the trip was this boat service via Nihonbashi in downtown Tokyo. Recently launched as a new initiative, this service provides a new option for commuters to avoid the city traffic during weekdays peak hour. Each journey is around 20 minutes, and the boat ride brings commuters into the underbelly of Tokyo through narrow waterways.
We think this is a unique way to experience the city, with interesting views of the expressways supported above the canal by their wide sturdy pillars. The density of Tokyo also means that the sight includes many urban architectures along the way, often displaying the lesser-seen back view of buildings since building entrances are facing the main street and not the canal that the boat pass through.
The boat shuttles between Nihonbashi and Toyosu, costing 500 yen one way. This is extremely affordable compared to more touristy cruises or buses in Tokyo. Moreover, choosing the later evening timings offer a fantastic night scenery of the city.
For us, we decided to board the boat at Toyosu. It is a waterfront complex which houses offices and retail malls like Urban Dock LaLaport. Information for the boat ticket will be displayed at the sales office near the docks, and those with transport cards like Suica and Pasmo simply pay onboard by tapping a POS terminal carried by a staff member. We recommend exploring the area around Toyosu if there is time to spare as it is a relaxing waterfront area with incredible views.
Since this is a rather new service, not many people are aware of it and the boat is usually not full. The boat departs every hour on schedule from 4pm to 8pm at Toyosu Pier so it is best not to miss the boat as the waiting time for the next departure will be long. The direction of this boat journey also means that commuter will end at Nihonbashi Pier, right underneath the iconic Nihonbashi Bridge to continue a night out in central Tokyo, with Ginza or Akihabara a few metro stops away.
Generally, given the high volume of tourists in Tokyo, many attractions can become overcrowded. One instance is Shibuya Sky. Therefore, we were very keen and glad to be able to find less popular but as interesting an experience such as the high-floor lookout from Hills House and the unique canal boat ride.
We will definitely be back in Tokyo again, which we may then share about other spots that did not make it into this trip review. The city is no doubt a treasure trove, so before we end this review, we will also like to give a last shout-out to Kitsuneya at Tsukiji Outer Market, and a niche cafe/themed teahouse Touken Ranbu 2.5D at Akihabara!
