This trip was completed in December 2024.
To many tourists visiting China, Nanjing may not be high on their list of Chinese cities. Likewise, we did not think that Nanjing would offer much when we were first considering to make a trip there. However, we were pleasantly surprised with the scenery of the city, a distinct blend of historical and modern architecture. With Purple Mountain so close to the city center, there is also no lack of nature surrounding the city.
Moreover, the cultural significance of Nanjing cannot be understated, being the capital of many dynasties and now housing a world-class museum which is one of China's best. The city is also the resting place of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, a bigger-than-life figure many see as the Father of Modern China.
Accommodation: Mercure Nanjing Downtown
Rating 8.1/10
This hotel is somewhat of a hidden gem. It was not available for booking on many of the usual online travel platforms, with outdated information and not much reviews referring to the correct hotel. However, we can confirm that the hotel is live and operating now that we have stayed there. It can be booked via Accor (either website or mobile app), the hospitality group managing the hotel.
The reason we gave Mercure Nanjing Downtown a high score despite not being an upscale hotel is because the location is unbeatable for a very affordable price of about 650RMB/night. We highly respect the value-for-money positioning that the hotel managed to balance out, without sacrificing a lot of the comfort factor. The hotel lobby is rightfully small and there are not much onsite facilities to speak of. However, we met very professional staff which tried their best to accede to our requests. On the first night, we arrived close to 1am and the staff at the check-in reception was thoughtful enough to allocate us a quieter room.
For the room, the space is on the small side by China's standard. The tighter layout was compensated by the new modern interior finishing in the room. There was not much of a window view and we did not hear any street noise from our room. For the bathroom, space is sufficient though the toilet may feel more cramped than the shower. The wash basin is also placed outside in an open-concept style due to space constraint.
Overall, we find that the hotel is a fuss-free convenient option which puts you right at the doorstep of Xinjiekou, the eminent commercial/shopping district of Nanjing. This area is home to most of the household and luxury brands, and is one of the largest commercial area in China rivalling those of Nanjing Road in Shanghai and Wangfujing in Beijing.
Accommodation: Intercontinental Nanjing
Rating 8.1/10
Straight down at the other end of Zhongshan Road from Mercure Nanjing Downtown, Intercontinental Nanjing is located in the tallest building in Nanjing called Zifeng Tower. The hotel offers stunning views of the city's commercial business district (as it is itself situated outside the CBD), breathtaking Xuanwu Lake, and the imposing Purple Mountain.
The ground entrance to the hotel is well-decorated but unlike many of these hotels in high-rise integrated complex, the check-in counters are actually at the ground floor instead of being at a higher floor in the building. Our check-in process was rather slow so the waiting time was something we did not enjoy.
The transfer lobby is located at the 45th floor, which is also where the restaurant for breakfast is at. You can get an almost 360 degrees view of Nanjing city from the 45th floor. The swimming pool and fitness center is located on the 8th floor and the facilities were mentioned to be operating by a third-party.
We stayed on the 69th floor and we find the hotel room to be a better choice than paying an entrance fee for the public observatory on the 72nd floor of the building. You can admire the top-down scenery of both sunrise and sunset (as well as any time in between) in the comfort of your own room. Room rates can start from as low as 800RMB/night.
The room itself is definitely spacious, with a glass-separated bathroom that comes with a tub. That said, we find the overall room decor to be dated, especially the color tone of the furniture paired with the carpet flooring.
Accommodation: Ritz Carlton Nanjing
Rating 8.6/10
We did not think we will enjoy Ritz Carlton Nanjing that much. The consistent service quality and familiar scent of Ritz Carlton hotels is somewhat expected. But what caught us by surprise is the spot-on design and decor of the rooms, a style which we love and reminded us of St Regis Shenzhen, just with a much nicer bathroom at Ritz Carlton Nanjing. To top it off, it is one of the more affordable Ritz Carlton with nightly room rate of around 2,500RMB.
The hotel is conveniently connected to Deji Plaza, arguably the most famous luxury shopping complex in the city. The hotel building itself is at the heart of Xinjiekou, and about 5 minutes walk from Mercure Nanjing Downtown. This is a more conventional hotel layout where the ground lobby sits a concierge counter while the actual reception lobby is on the 38th floor. We especially like the dark tones of the lounge beside the check-in area.
For the room layout, there are various bends separating the areas of the room. It is not a room where everything can be seen all at once upon opening the main door. The floor area is generous and the study desk area is tastefully appointed.
Our room looked out to the intersecting junction of Zhonghua Road and Hanzhong Road, with eclectic flashing lights from the IFC and Cenbest buildings completing the futuristic night view.
All the furniture are meticulously placed, with well-designed functional spaces and features such as a pull-out bar table near the mini fridge. The bathtub is snuggly tucked into an odd corner of the bathroom, which adds to the cosiness of the corner rather than looking awkwardly out of place.
Dining: Kwei Mun Lung (Deji Plaza)
Rating 8.5/10
A popular Hangzhou cuisine chain, Kwei Mun Lung is located on the top floor of Deji Plaza. We visited right before lunch hour and were promptly shown to a seat on the second floor that provided a full view of the restaurant’s interior. Upon entering, you’d notice a floor-to-ceiling bookshelf spanning one side of the 2-storey restaurant alongside grand pavilions and traditional Chinese art.
Every table was served with tangerines as appetizer before the meal. There is a good variety on the menu, with generous portions exquisitely executed. We were pleasantly surprised by the Yangzhou Fried Rice, which despite being a relatively common staple item, was fragrant and could hold its own.
Other noteworthy mentions are stir-fried pork slices and green chili served with steamed buns (which introduced us to a new way of enjoying this dish), as well as deep fried fermented beancurd garnished with sunflower seeds, that had a light texture and did not feel greasy at all. For dessert, we had a glutinous rice roll coated with brown sugar and nuts, a twist to the classic Chinese dessert.
As we left the restaurant, it was noticeably operating at close to full capacity on a Monday afternoon. If you’re keen to try, we’d recommend visiting off-peak to minimize waiting. According to our observations, both this restaurant and Nanjing Impressions in this mall can command a queue of above an hour waiting time during weekend dinners.
Dining: Nanjing Impressions (Lao Men Dong)
Rating 8.3/10
A popular choice for signature Nanjing cuisine, Nanjing Impressions is likely on the top of the list for first-time visitors. There are several outlets within the city and we visited the one nestled within Lao Men Dong, a historic district restored from former residential buildings. We dropped by to pick up a queue number at 5 pm and were told that the wait time would be at least 2 hours.
In our opinion, this outlet is ideal because Lao Men Dong itself is a tourist attraction suitable for exploring while waiting for a table at Nanjing Impressions. There are a wide array of shops available there, from quirky knick-knacks, local souvenirs to teahouses and kiosks touting local snacks.
Stepping into the bustling restaurant, it almost feels as if one has been transported back in time. The restaurant is furnished with traditional wooden carvings, paintings, wooden furniture, and lanterns, enhancing the dining experience as one steeped in rich ancient history. The comprehensive menu offers a one-stop shop for all of Nanjing’s most iconic food. Despite its elaborate interiors and popularity amongst tourists, we were surprised to find that prices did not seem inflated. Service was also of a good standard, with minimal waiting between ordering and serving.
Taste-wise, the food was executed well and adequately flavourful. Some of our favourites were Jinling Roast Duck which was succulent without being greasy, Nanjing Impressions Pot-stickers generously filled with minced beef, chestnut and chives, and Red Bean Glutinous Rice Balls in Sweet Wine rich in both taste and texture. Given the variety of items on the menu, it is natural that not all the dishes will be to one's liking. However, we recommend coming in a bigger group to be able to try more food.
Dining: Chan Fang Restaurant
Rating 7.8/10
This restaurant is certainly not on the radar of tourists. However, there is an ongoing local trend whereby restaurants are decorated like one’s own home, with a curated menu of some simple dishes, serving to replicate the coziness of dining at home. Chan Fang falls in this cuisine category, which is gaining traction in Nanjing. This is a snug and homey 2-storey space within Qingdao Road Community which requires some walking from the main road.
The place is furnished in a Japandi theme with whites and light woods, including a small bar counter in front of a kitchen sectioned off by cream-coloured curtains. During our visit, the second floor was not opened to diners. We particularly enjoyed the spicy beef hotpot reminiscent of a Korean army stew that complemented the winter evening well. In addition, an interesting option on the menu was Thai stir-fried minced pork and basil leaves with rice, which had a good spicy kick to it.
In the vicinity, there are a couple of universities and many quirky little shops, making it seem like a youthful university town. We belatedly learnt that Qingdao Road is a favoured “citywalk” route. If you happen to be in the area, it could be a neighbourhood worth exploring.
Dining: Comfort Coffee + AMAM Bakery Town
Rating 8.0/10
We kickstarted our first morning in Nanjing with a quick stop at Comfort Coffee, an independent coffee shop in the central business district, Xinjiekou, as it was only a short leisurely walk from our hotel. The cafe has a cozy space and conservative indoor seating, with many visitors opting to have their coffee on-the-go. In addition to classic Italian coffee, they also offer seasonal specials such as maple and cinnamon-flavoured lattes, as well as a handful of small bakes.
Accompanying each coffee order is a selection of either light or dark roast coffee bean. We had a latte in the lighter roast and a dirty in the other. Both were palatable and offered their own depth of flavour.
On our way back after Comfort Coffee, we decided to head to AMAM Bakery Town which just opened in Deji Plaza. It is a popular bakery with a wide variety of pastries and desserts, including pretzels, bagels and cheesecakes.
Upon entering AMAM, we were greeted by a dizzying display of fancy baked goods and the store design reminded us of Butterful & Creamorous in Shanghai. Likewise, the offerings at Amam did not disappoint. We enjoyed the NY Cheesecake, a classic done well, and British Pistachio Bakewell Tart, which had a good balance of richness and sweetness.
Activity: Purple Mountain (Zijin Mountain)
Rating 8.7/10
The Purple Mountain is a wide tourism area encompassing multiple attractions in the scenic area. While most visitors drive in the area, not all parts can be accessed by car. The tourist shuttle is another alternative which is more fuss-free in our view given the logistics of car parking and narrow driveways. On the other hand, the downside is the waiting time and possibly long queues during peak travel season.
The roads into Purple Mountain are already very beautiful due to the neat rows of Wutong trees (a cultural symbol of Nanjing city) along the paths. Apart from that, probably the most prominent attraction in the scenic area is the Dr. Sun Yat-sen mausoleum. To reach the top, there are long flights of steps and it is not uncommon to see visitors resting on the steps while making their way up. Despite the exhaustion, the views from the top are highly rewarding as it overlooks beyond the forest to the city in the far distance.
Many local Chinese tourists from other cities will also make it a point to visit this place if they come to Nanjing due to the significance of Dr Sun Yat-sen's pioneering contribution to the country. Nearby the mausoleum is the musical hall, which we find to be more touristy and mainly a photo spot with some pigeons-feeding.
What took us more by surprise is the Linggu Tower within Linggu Park as the landscape turned out to be more beautiful than we expected. Linggu Tower is in another area on the Purple Mountain, which is also serviced by the tourist shuttle. Perhaps because of our early timing, there were not much visitors and we managed to climb to the higher floors of the Linggu Tower without any jam up the narrow spiral staircase. The morning fog covering the forest and the silhouette of the city in the backdrop was a breathtaking sight to behold.
Activity: Nanjing city wall and its gates
Rating 8.4/10
An iconic landmark of Nanjing is the historic city wall which can be found surrounding the city. Maintained under well conditions, visitors can access the many gates on the city walls and have a leisure stroll along the length of the walls.
Making this trip during winter can be chilly but we did enjoy the thinner crowd and sections of the walls where there were nobody in sight at all. We started at Zhonghua Gate, a popular tourist spot near attractions like the Porcelain Tower and Laomendong. Our walk on the city wall took us to Wuding Gate in around 30 minutes, with most sections running parallel with the Qinhuai River below and some others bringing us up close to local residential buildings.
Views from the city walls are definitely worth the walking, with parks and the river in the foreground and high-rise modern skyscrapers in the background. Since the city wall stretches across a large part of Nanjing city, another popular starting point is the Xuanwu Gate. This area is arguably more picturesque, offering a dramatic backdrop of Zifeng Tower towering above the island parks within Xuanwu Lake.
We started at Xuanwu Gate and ended at Jiefang Gate via a long idyllic path through the lake, right around evening sunset hours. The famous Jiming Temple near Jiefang Gate can be a great endpoint of the walk.
Having these ancient walls in an urban environment gave Nanjing a unique character that we seldom come across in cities. This is also the precise reason why we find our trip in Nanjing an unforgettable experience, combining both the rich cultural heritage with the modern comfort that we are used to in a sprawling city.
