Trip review to Istanbul: Summer along the Bosporus Strait

This trip was completed in August 2024.

This time, we travelled to the end of Asia in Turkiye, where the city of Istanbul is divided into the European and Asian side by a waterway passage. Ferries ply the Bosphorus Strait and every summer, a moonlight ferry cruise route opens to bring tourists on a evening-to-midnight journey along the Bosporus.

As a historically important and culturally rich city, Istanbul has many sights and experiences to offer visitors, from architecture to nature. In fact, Istanbul ranks among the most visited cities globally year after year, straddling two continents and featuring in the top fifteen most populous cities in the world.

Airport Lounge: IGA Lounge (Istanbul Airport)

Rating 8.4/10

Aside from the crowd during peak timings where it may be frustrating to even find a seat, this is a world-class contract lounge both in terms of size and the facilities. The processing of the lounge entry is also well-organised, complete with electronic gates as the access points.

There are many seating zones surrounding the main dining area, with terraces extending out of the mezzanine floor to offer a top-down view of the main airport hall. The bar overlooks the runway, with a pool table and massage service beside the bar.

To top it off, there was even a piano performance greeting us right before the dining hall!

Transportation: Ferry and tram

Rating 8.1/10

There are various public transport options around Istanbul, and generally the entire metropolitan area is well connected to the airport (IST). Earlier this year, the final connection at Gayrettepe station was completed, allowing travellers a seamless metro journey to transfer into the city center.

Once in the city, there are multiple transportation options available to visitors such as the trams and ferries. At the asian side of Istanbul, one can also take the loop tram for a quick exploration of the streets of Kadikoy.

Accommodation: Artisan Istanbul MGallery

Rating 7.8/10

This hotel is situated in a good location and within walking distance to Taksim Square. From here, many tourist attractions are within reach, including the famous İstiklal Caddesi and Dolmabahçe Mosque.

As for the hotel rooms, they are rather basic with not much of a window view for most rooms. Situated at the top of a hill with narrow streets, the neighbouring building is also only a few metres away, leading to less privacy if the window curtains are not drawn. Room rates are around 160 Euros/night.

Breakfast, however, was value-for-money with amazing views of both Europe-side Kabatas and Asia-side Uskudar. There was a wide spread of food selection at the rooftop restaurant, with a cosy atmosphere and friendly staff. We recommend going early for breakfast to score a window seat and probably have the entire restaurant to yourself for pictures before other hotel guests arrive.

Accommodation: Doubletree Hilton Moda

Rating 7.6/10

When we first approached the pier from the ferry, the hotel looked out of place among the other buildings. However, because of the building height, it offers good views of both the surrounding city and the Bosporus.

Although the bedroom is spacious, the hardware is not well maintained. Bathroom is also leaning towards the small side and there is no separate shower from the bathtub. That said, the room TV is considerably large and the sunset view from the window can be amazing on a clear day. Room rates are around 140 Euros/night.

The rooftop pool is another big bonus, although it only opens during summer. During the other months of the year, hotel guests can use the indoor pool located at the basement together with the gym and spa.

Accommodation: Sanasaryan Han

Rating 8.2/10

Located in a historic part of the city, the hotel is close to most of the tourist attractions in Eminönü (Old City). While the hotel does not come with onsite facilities like gym or pool, the interiors are utterly well-designed and exudes luxury.

Staff service could be better though, as we waited quite a while for both check in and check out. There was also some inconsistency with some guests getting a a briefing and map of the locale while other guests were left waiting by themselves without updates.

The room is well-appointed, and the bathroom is fitted with high quality hardware and finishings. The welcome platter of turkish delight in the room was both presentable and offers a good touch of local experience. Room rates are around 380 Euros/night.

Dining: Kaiser Kabatas

Rating 7.9/10

This is a small laidback cafe which opens for breakfast along a street of local shops. Away from the main tourist strips, one can reach the cafe either via an idyllic stroll down the hilly slopes from İnönü Caddesi or up a flight of stairs from Kabatas ferry pier.

The cafe serves both local Turkish breakfast and standard western options. Overall, the ambience resembles a chic hangout spot in a local neighbourhood. There are also outdoor seating (but limited) occupying parking spaces along the road which we recommend on a morning with good weather for some people-watching.

Dining: Galata Lily Cafe Restaurant

Rating 8.1/10

This is a highly visible restaurant right at the foot of the iconic Galata Tower. Just a few steps from the main tourist street, this restaurant maintains a rustic but well-equipped dining operation. We fortunately arrived to plenty of available tables, but this place can be rather packed at times. What's most important was that the entire dining experience was not rushed despite being in a touristy spot.

The staff were friendly and accommodative towards us, not displaying any sense of the usual commerciality despite being situated in a tourist hotspot. The dishes were prepared well, although it largely depends on what you ordered.

Local dishes tasted great for us but the casual western dishes like bolognese spaghetti are at most average. Desserts are a must-try in this restaurant among their extensive menu.

Dining: Benusen Meyhane

Rating 7.7/10

Meyhane means local traditional restaurant in the Turkish culture. These establishments usually offer a more classic dining experience, with a focus on the food and also creating a crowded atmosphere with large groups of patrons. In this regard, the aesthetic or interior decoration is secondary to the food and drinks they serve.

Benusen Meyhane is a restaurant located in Kadikoy, the Asian side of Turkiye. Along a prime spot right next to the Kadikoy piers, this place comes alive in the evening with both local regulars and tourists. Since we were not a large group, we did not order the numerous sharing dishes synonymous with these dinner settings.

However, even our personal dishes were seasoned and grilled to perfection. The butter prawns packed a punch too. Overall, the serving portions were generous and many of the dishes will go well with their cheese and alcohol.

Dining: Pudding Shop Lale Restaurant

Rating 8.2/10

As a rather prominent shop around Sultanamet, this casual restaurant is usually packed. However, seating is ample so there is likely no queue required apart from the peak meal timing. The place itself is steeped with history and clad in traditional interior style. The food served here are mainly simple local fare. Popular among tour groups, the restaurant also doubles up as a good resting spot before or after a visit to the nearby Sultanahmet and Ayasofya.

The kebab took a while to arrive but it was piping hot when served. Definitely not to be missed, there are also a variety of pudding to choose from in the shop. The pudding here is a must try and we tried one with a crispy golden top and savoury pudding underneath.

Activity: Bophorus moonlight ferry and dinner

Rating 8.5/10

Certainly a highlight of the trip, the Bophorus moonlight ferry is a service only available during the summer months by Istanbul's public ferry operator Sehir Hatlari. Compared to other private operators who arrange tourist cruises complete with dinner and performances onboard, this moonlight ferry is less touristy and no-frills.

With several stops along the route, travellers can sail down the Bophorus straits towards the Black Sea. We bought the tickets on the day of the ferry ride, about an hour before the scheduled departure time. At Eminönü pier, it may be hard to find the ticketing counter at first because there are several kiosks operated by Sehir Hatlari to various destinations.

Look out for a cafe bookstore called Istanbul Kitapcisi by the pier and the moonlight ferry counter is along the same stretch of pier. The ferry journey itself takes about an hour or two, ending at a small town called Anadolu Kavagi just before the Black Sea.

Apart from having a seafood dinner in one of the handful of restaurants, one can also do a short hike to Yoros Castle and enjoy the view from the top of the hill. Do factor in some time buffer and take note that it may already be late evening (with fast diminishing daylight) after arriving at the town if taking the moonlight ferry.

The return leg of the journey will sail along the same straits and depending on the disembarkation point, it may well be near midnight when you reach back to the piers in the main city of Istanbul. The entire ferry experience will span around 6 hours, but we think it is definitely a worthwhile experience when visiting Istanbul.